Auxerre

A riverside city on the Yonne known for its soaring Gothic cathedral and picturesque waterfront with charming old quarters. The city offers a more relaxed alternative to Dijon while maintaining rich medieval heritage and access to northern Burgundy's attractions.

Things to do

• Cathédrale Saint-Étienne — Explore this stunning Gothic cathedral with its soaring nave, intricate rose windows, and Renaissance stained glass spanning five centuries of craftsmanship.
• Yonne Riverfront Walk — Stroll along the picturesque quays lined with half-timbered houses and willows, offering scenic views and access to charming cafés and small museums.
• Musée Leblanc-Duvernoy — Visit this 18th-century mansion displaying decorative arts, tapestries, and period furniture that reveal the refined tastes of Burgundian merchants.
• Abbey of Saint-Germain — Discover this former Benedictine abbey with its Romanesque crypt, medieval frescoes, and underground chambers reflecting over a thousand years of monastic history.
• Old Town (Vieux Quartier) — Wander through narrow medieval streets lined with Renaissance townhouses, artisan shops, and galleries in the heart of historic Auxerre.
• Chablis Wine Route Day Trip — Take the short 20-minute drive to the renowned Chablis vineyards for tastings of crisp white wines and visits to family-run domaines.

Food to try

• Chablis — Sample the bone-dry white wine produced from Chardonnay grapes in the nearby Chablis region, the perfect accompaniment to local cuisine.
• Jambon de Bourgogne — Taste Burgundian ham, a cured specialty often served thinly sliced as a starter or in classic dishes throughout the region.
• Pâté de Foie Gras — Indulge in this rich Burgundian delicacy made from duck liver, typically served on toast as an appetizer in traditional restaurants.
• Escargots de Bourgogne — Try these land snails cooked in their shells with garlic, parsley, and butter—an iconic Burgundian dish often served as a classic starter.
• Coq au Vin — Order this rustic braised chicken in red wine sauce, a signature Burgundian comfort food that showcases the region's culinary heritage.
• Époisses Cheese — Sample this pungent, creamy washed-rind cheese from nearby, known for its bold aroma and rich flavor—best enjoyed with local bread and wine.

Local customs & good to know

• Respect the siesta tradition — Many shops and restaurants close between noon and 2 PM; plan accordingly and embrace the local rhythm of leisurely lunch breaks.
• Learn basic French courtesies — Greet shopkeepers and servers with 'Bonjour' or 'Bonsoir' before speaking; politeness is deeply valued in this traditional French town.
• Visit markets on weekends — Saturday morning markets near the cathedral feature fresh local produce, cheese, and crafts that reflect Burgundian rural traditions.
• Dress modestly for churches — When visiting the cathedral and abbey, wear respectful clothing with covered shoulders and knees out of consideration for active religious spaces.