Sukhumi

სოხუმი

The capital and largest city, set on a Black Sea bay with a palm-lined seafront promenade and faded belle-époque architecture. Its atmospheric mix of subtropical greenery, botanical garden, and war-scarred grandeur makes it a compelling if melancholic stop.

Things to do

• Stroll the Seafront Promenade — Walk the palm-lined Naberezhnaya along the Black Sea bay, past faded belle-époque facades and the iconic weathered pier.
• Sukhumi Botanical Garden — Wander one of the Caucasus's oldest botanical gardens, home to subtropical plants and a 250-year-old Caucasian linden tree.
• Sukhumi Monkey Nursery — Visit the Soviet-era primate research institute on Trapetsia Hill, where monkeys were once bred for space and medical experiments.
• Abkhazian State Museum — Explore regional archaeology, ethnography, and history spanning ancient Colchis to the modern era.
• Brekhalovka Café Square — Sit at this legendary open-air coffee spot near the seafront where locals play dominoes and drink Turkish-style coffee.
• Besletsky Bridge — See the moss-covered 11th–12th century stone arch bridge over the Basla River just outside the city.
• Ruins of the Government House — View the shell-scarred Soviet parliament building, a stark relic of the 1992–93 war left standing in the center.
• Sukhumi Fortress and Waterfront Ruins — Trace remnants of the ancient Roman-era Sebastopolis fortress along the shoreline.

Food to try

• Akhachapuri (Abkhaz khachapuri) — Cheese-filled bread, often the boat-shaped adjaruli version topped with an egg and butter.
• Abista — Abkhazia's staple unsalted cornmeal porridge, served hot alongside cheese and spicy sauces.
• Adjika — Fiery red pepper, garlic, and herb paste that accompanies nearly every Abkhaz meal.
• Akudrshaphara / smoked cheese — Traditional Abkhaz smoked suluguni-style cheese often eaten with abista.
• Achma — Layered lasagna-like pasta baked with cheese and butter.
• Wine and chacha — Sample local Abkhaz wines like Lykhny and homemade chacha grape brandy at seafront cafés.

Local customs & good to know

• Entry is politically sensitive — Abkhazia is a breakaway region; entering from Russia is considered illegal by Georgia, and most travelers cross from Zugdidi with prior permission from the Abkhaz authorities.
• Bring cash in Russian rubles — The ruble is the de facto currency, ATMs are unreliable, and international cards rarely work.
• Respect the war's legacy — Ask before photographing ruined buildings or locals, as the 1990s conflict remains deeply felt.
• Toasting is a serious ritual — At meals a tamada (toastmaster) leads elaborate toasts, and it's polite to wait and drink accordingly.

Nearby

• New Athos Monastery — 18 km
• New Athos — 19 km
• Anacopia Fortress — 19 km
• Pitsunda — 58 km