La Spezia

La Spezia is an underrated gateway city to Cinque Terre and the Golfo dei Poeti, with a vibrant market and excellent naval museum. It offers an authentic Ligurian city experience away from tourist crowds.

Things to do

• Visit the Naval Museum — The Museo Tecnico Navale holds one of Italy's finest collections of naval history and ships.
• Explore the weekly market — The bustling Friday and Saturday market near the waterfront sells local food and goods.
• Day trip to Lerici — A charming medieval castle town on the gulf, easily reached by bus or boat.
• Walk the Passeggiata Morin — The city's scenic waterfront promenade stretches along the gulf with mountain views.
• Hike to Campiglia viewpoint — A trail above the city offers panoramic views of the Cinque Terre coastline.

Food to try

• Mesciua — A humble La Spezia soup of chickpeas, wheat, and borlotti beans in olive oil.
• Farinata di Farro — A spelt-flour variation of farinata unique to the La Spezia area.
• Testaroli — A thick crepe-like pasta cooked on a terracotta disc, served with pesto or oil.
• Acciughe sotto sale — Salt-cured anchovies from the nearby Ligurian sea, a pantry staple of the region.

Local customs & good to know

• Use La Spezia as a base — Trains and ferries to Cinque Terre are frequent and cheap from La Spezia Centrale.
• Support local businesses — Unlike overtouristed villages, La Spezia's restaurants cater to locals — expect better value.
• Visit the castle at sunset — Castello di San Giorgio has free entry and sweeping views best enjoyed at dusk.