Umm Qais

أم قيس

An ancient Greco-Roman city in northern Jordan overlooking the Jordan Valley, Sea of Galilee, and Golan Heights, with ruins of temples, theaters, and a museum showcasing artifacts. Located about an hour and a half from Amman, it offers historical depth combined with dramatic panoramic vistas.

Things to do

• Explore the West Theatre — Walk through the remarkably preserved Roman theatre carved into the hillside, offering insight into ancient entertainment and gatherings.
• Visit the Umm Qais Museum — Browse artifacts including mosaics, pottery, coins, and statuary from the Greco-Roman period housed in the on-site museum.
• Hike to panoramic viewpoints — Trek along the ridge trails to multiple overlooks with sweeping views of the Jordan Valley, Sea of Galilee, and Golan Heights on clear days.
• Tour the Basilica Church ruins — Examine the foundations and remaining columns of an early Byzantine church, reflecting the religious transition of the region.
• Photograph the columned portico — Capture images of the reconstructed Corinthian columns and ancient architectural fragments arranged across the archaeological site.
• Walk the ancient residential quarter — Stroll through excavated house foundations and streets to understand daily life in this prosperous Roman border town.

Food to try

• Mansaf with Umm Ali bread — Enjoy the Levantine specialty of lamb in yogurt sauce served with thin flatbread, often prepared using local recipes from nearby Bedouin communities.
• Za'atar-topped labneh — Taste strained yogurt topped with the region's signature thyme-sumac blend, typically served as an appetizer with fresh pita.
• Grilled fish from the Jordan Valley — Sample freshwater fish caught from local sources and simply grilled with lemon and herbs, reflecting the area's proximity to water sources.
• Stuffed grape leaves (warak enab) — Try hand-rolled grape leaves filled with seasoned rice and meat, a traditional preparation common in northern Jordan's rural hospitality.
• Strong Arabic coffee and dates — Share the customary welcome beverage of cardamom-infused coffee paired with fresh or stuffed dates, essential to Jordanian hospitality.

Local customs & good to know

• Dress modestly and wear sturdy shoes — The site involves extensive walking over uneven ancient stone; lightweight long pants and covered shoulders show respect for the rural Jordanian setting.
• Visit early morning or late afternoon — Temperatures soar at midday on the exposed hilltop, and morning and golden-hour light enhance both photography and comfort.
• Greet locals with 'As-salamu alaykum' — A simple greeting in Arabic opens warm interactions with site staff and nearby villagers who appreciate visitors' respect for local customs.
• Bring plenty of water and sun protection — The archaeological site offers minimal shade; visitors should carry at least 2 liters of water, hat, and sunscreen for safe exploration.