Food & Drink

How to eat well in Latvia — customs, dishes and where to go.

Must-Try Dishes (Ēdieni)

Grey Peas with Bacon (Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi) — This is the unofficial national dish: grey peas simmered and served with fried fatty bacon and onions. Earthy, filling and traditionally eaten around Christmas but available year-round in Latvian restaurants.
Cold Beet Soup (Aukstā zupa) — A vivid pink summer soup made from kefir, beetroot, cucumber, dill and boiled egg, usually served with a side of hot boiled potatoes. It's refreshing and appears on menus mainly from May to September.
Rye Bread (Rupjmaize) — Dark, dense sourdough rye is central to Latvian food and taken very seriously. Try it as sklandrausis (a sweet carrot-and-potato rye tartlet from Kurzeme) or as a dessert with whipped cream, jam and cranberries.
Smoked Fish (Kūpināta zivs) — The Baltic coast is famous for smoked fish, especially sprats, flounder and eel. Look for it at coastal markets and towns like Jūrmala and along the Kurzeme fishing villages.
Piragi (Pīrāgi) — Small crescent-shaped baked buns stuffed with bacon and onion, eaten as a snack or party food. They're sold cheaply in bakeries and are a great grab-and-go option.

Coffee is Strong and Everywhere — Riga has a thriving specialty coffee scene, with roasters like Rocket Bean and MiiT Coffee. Espresso-based drinks are standard and quality in the capital rivals any European city.
Konditoreja Cake Culture — Latvians love their pastry shops (konditoreja). Order a slice of cake with coffee at classic spots and try the layered honey cake or cottage-cheese pastries.
Central Market Cafés — For cheap, authentic bites, eat at the stalls inside and around Riga Central Market (Centrāltirgus), housed in old Zeppelin hangars. It's where locals grab lunch, not a tourist trap.
Herbal and Birch Options — Beyond coffee, cafés often serve herbal teas and birch sap (bērzu sula) in spring. It's a mildly sweet local drink worth trying when in season.

Riga Black Balsam (Rīgas Melnais balzams) — This bitter herbal liqueur at around 45% is Latvia's signature drink, made from a secret blend of botanicals since 1752. Sip it neat, in coffee, or try the softer blackcurrant version if the original is too intense.
Craft Beer (Alus) — Latvia has a strong beer tradition and a growing craft scene, with breweries like Valmiermuiža and Labietis. Ask for local farmhouse-style ales rather than mass lagers.
Kvass (Kvass) — A lightly fermented, low-alcohol drink made from rye bread, sold in summer from street tanks. It's sweet, tangy and a traditional non-alcoholic refreshment.
Balsam in Cocktails — Many Riga bars mix Black Balsam into cocktails to tame its bitterness. This is an easy entry point if drinking it straight feels too medicinal.

Lido — This Latvian cafeteria chain offers cheap, generous portions of traditional food where you point at what you want. The Lido Recreation Centre is a huge wooden hall that's touristy but genuinely fun and tasty.
Avoid Old Town Menu Touts — Restaurants in Riga's Old Town (Vecrīga) with staff luring you in from the street tend to be overpriced tourist traps. Walk a few blocks out for better food at fair prices.
Miera iela District — This bohemian street in Riga has independent cafés, bakeries and casual restaurants favoured by locals. It's a good area for relaxed, non-touristy meals.
Countryside Krogs — Outside the capital, look for a krogs (tavern), often serving hearty homestyle Latvian food. Rural manor estates sometimes have excellent restaurants attached.

Key Words — Learn a few basics: zupa (soup), gaļa (meat), zivs (fish), kartupeļi (potatoes), maize (bread) and desert (dessert). Menus in Riga usually have English, but rural spots may not.
Speķis Means Fatty Bacon — Speķis appears in many traditional dishes and refers to fatty pork bacon or lard. Vegetarians should ask carefully, as it flavours many peasant dishes.
Watch for Weight Pricing — Some dishes, especially fish and meat, are priced per 100g rather than per portion. Confirm the price so you aren't surprised by the final bill.
Seasonal Specials — Look for the daily menu (dienas ēdienkarte), which offers a cheaper set lunch on weekdays. It's the best value and often the freshest, most local food.

Tipping is Modest — Leaving around 10% is appreciated but not obligatory, and service is not always automatically included. Check the bill and round up or add a small tip for good service.
Latvians Are Reserved — Diners tend to be quiet and understated rather than loud and expressive. Don't mistake reserved service for rudeness; it's a cultural norm.
Bread is Sacred — Rye bread carries cultural weight and traditionally shouldn't be wasted or dropped. Treat it with a bit of respect and you'll fit in.
Toasting — When drinking, a simple 'Priekā!' (cheers) is the standard toast. Make eye contact when clinking glasses, as is common across the Baltics.
Bring a Gift if Invited Home — If a Latvian invites you to their home, bring flowers, wine or chocolates. Give flowers in odd numbers, as even numbers are reserved for funerals.