Playón Chico
Ukupseni
A large traditional Guna community island connected to the mainland by a footbridge, with an airstrip and eco-lodges nearby. It offers deeper immersion into Guna culture and access to less-touristed reefs and jungle rivers.
Things to do
- Cross the footbridge — Walk the long wooden pedestrian bridge that links the island community to the mainland, where the airstrip and jungle begin.
- Wander the village lanes — Explore the densely packed cane-and-thatch huts, the Guna Congress house, and daily island life on this large traditional community island.
- Snorkel offshore reefs — Take a boat with local guides to nearby coral reefs and sandy cays that see far fewer visitors than the western San Blas islands.
- Jungle river trip — Boat up a mainland river through mangroves and rainforest to see waterfalls and freshwater swimming spots used by the Guna.
- Visit the island cemetery — See the mainland burial ground where Guna are laid in hammocks under thatched roofs, reflecting their spiritual beliefs.
- Watch mola making — Sit with Guna women as they hand-stitch reverse-appliqué mola panels, the community's signature textile art.
- Sunrise from an eco-lodge dock — Stay at an overwater or nearby island cabin and watch the sun rise over the Caribbean and the coastal mountains.
Food to try
- Fresh grilled fish — Locally caught snapper or other reef fish grilled or fried and served with coconut rice, a staple at the lodges.
- Coconut rice (arroz con coco) — Rice cooked in coconut milk from the islands' abundant coconuts, a defining flavor of Guna cooking.
- Lobster and crab — Seasonal Caribbean lobster and crab caught nearby and simply prepared with butter or garlic.
- Patacones (fried plantain) — Twice-fried green plantain rounds served as a crunchy side to seafood meals.
- Tule masi — A traditional Guna one-pot soup of fish, plantain, and coconut milk eaten by island families.
Local customs & good to know
- Ask before photographing — Always request permission before taking pictures of Guna people, and expect a small fee for photos of women in traditional dress.
- Respect Guna autonomy — Guna Yala is a self-governing comarca with its own rules; follow the guidance of your host and the local Congress.
- Bring small cash — There are no ATMs, so bring small US dollar bills for molas, meals, tips, and boat trips.
- Buy molas directly — Purchasing molas from the women who make them supports the community and its living textile tradition.
Nearby
- Coco Bandero Cays — 50 km
- Dog Island — 53 km
- Devil Island — 54 km
- Cayos Holandeses — 58 km