Craiova

The historic capital of Oltenia, with an elegant old centre, the Art Nouveau Casa Băniei and one of Romania's finest art museums holding Brâncuși works. The whimsical Nicolae Romanescu Park and lively squares make it a rewarding urban stop.

Things to do

• Muzeul de Artă Craiova — Housed in the opulent Jean Mihail Palace, this museum holds six early Constantin Brâncuși sculptures alongside Romanian masters.
• Nicolae Romanescu Park — Stroll this vast, whimsical park with suspended bridges, grottoes, lakes and a ruined-castle folly, designed in the early 1900s and awarded in Paris.
• Casa Băniei — Visit Craiova's oldest surviving civic building, a 1699 Brâncoveanu-style house now showcasing Oltenian ethnography and folk art.
• Piața Mihai Viteazul — Relax on the city's lively central square, ringed by cafés and dominated by an equestrian statue of Michael the Brave.
• Madona Dudu Church — Admire this richly frescoed Orthodox church, a major local pilgrimage site rebuilt after earthquakes.
• Calea Unirii promenade — Walk Craiova's grand pedestrianised avenue lined with restored Belle Époque and Art Nouveau facades.
• Oltenia Museum of Natural Sciences — Explore regional geology, flora and fauna exhibits in this branch of the Oltenia Museum.

Food to try

• Tochitură oltenească — A hearty Oltenian pork stew served with mămăligă, a fried egg and salty telemea cheese.
• Ciorbă de perișoare — A sour meatball soup soured with borș, a staple starter in local restaurants.
• Saramură de crap — Grilled carp in a spicy brine broth, reflecting the fish traditions of the nearby Danube plain.
• Zacuscă — A roasted vegetable and eggplant spread commonly homemade in autumn and served on bread across Oltenia.
• Plăcintă cu brânză — Flaky pastry filled with sweet or salty cheese, sold at bakeries and markets around the centre.

Local customs & good to know

• Oltenians and their reputation — Locals are famously quick-witted and proud of their regional identity, so a friendly nod to Oltenia goes down well.
• Cash for markets — Carry lei in cash for the Piața Centrală market and small vendors, though card payment is common in restaurants.
• Church etiquette — Dress modestly and stay quiet in Orthodox churches like Madona Dudu, especially during services.

Nearby

• Trovants Museum Costești — 71 km
• Târgu Jiu — 89 km
• Horezu — 94 km
• Polovragi Cave and Monastery — 95 km