Laguardia

A fortified medieval hilltop town in Basque wine country (Rioja Alavesa), surrounded by vineyards and known for wineries built into its ancient tunnels. Its walled old town and panoramic vineyard views make it a top day trip from Vitoria-Gasteiz.

Things to do

• Walk the medieval walls — Stroll the well-preserved ramparts and stone gates that still encircle the old town, offering sweeping views over the vineyards of Rioja Alavesa.
• Iglesia de Santa María de los Reyes — Marvel at the extraordinary 14th-century polychrome Gothic portico, one of the best-preserved painted church facades in Spain.
• Explore underground wine tunnels — Tour the centuries-old cuevas carved beneath the town, many still used as working bodegas for aging Rioja wine.
• Visit Villa Lucía wine museum — An interactive museum near the old town explaining Rioja Alavesa winemaking, with tastings and a short multimedia film.
• See the Ysios Winery building — Admire Santiago Calatrava's undulating aluminum-and-wood winery set dramatically against the Sierra de Cantabria, just outside town.
• Climb San Juan Bautista bell tower — Climb this church tower for one of the best panoramic views of the walled town and surrounding vineyard patchwork.
• Wander Calle Mayor's stone doorways — Look for the carved coats of arms above house doorways along the main street, remnants of noble medieval families.
• Day trip to a hillside vineyard viewpoint — Just outside Laguardia, pull over at a roadside mirador for classic postcard views of vines rolling toward the mountains.

Food to try

• Chuletillas al sarmiento — Lamb chops grilled over burning vine cuttings, a signature Rioja Alavesa preparation often served at wine harvest gatherings.
• Patatas a la riojana — A hearty potato and chorizo stew simmered with local paprika, a classic regional comfort dish.
• Rioja Alavesa wine tasting — Sample robust reds directly at a bodega built into the town's ancient tunnels, often paired with a cellar tour.
• Caracoles a la riojana — Snails cooked in a spicy tomato and chorizo sauce, a traditional tapa found in local taverns.
• Pintxos crawl on Calle Mayor — Hop between small bars for bite-sized pintxos topped with local cheese, cured meats, or piquillo peppers.
• Queso curado with local honey — A firm sheep's milk cheese from the region, often served as a simple starter alongside a glass of crianza.

Local customs & good to know

• Park outside the walls — Cars are largely restricted inside the compact walled town, so use the designated lots just beyond the old gates.
• Book bodega visits ahead — Many underground wine cellars and wineries require reservations, especially for tours in English or during harvest season.
• Visit during the grape harvest festival — Late September's Fiestas de la Virgen de los Remedios and the wine harvest celebrations bring processions, tastings, and traditional dance.
• Expect a slower midday pace — Many shops and small bodegas close for a couple of hours around lunchtime, following typical Spanish siesta hours.