Comillas

A charming seaside town famous for El Capricho, an early whimsical work by Antoni Gaudí, alongside grand palaces and sandy beaches. It's a great mix of modernist architecture and relaxed coastal atmosphere.

Things to do

• El Capricho de Gaudí — Visit this whimsical modernist villa with sunflower-tiled facade and minaret-like tower, one of Gaudí's few works outside Catalonia.
• Palacio de Sobrellano — Tour this neo-Gothic palace built for the Marqués de Comillas, featuring lavish interiors and an adjoining chapel with a pantheon.
• Universidad Pontificia Comillas — Admire the monumental former seminary building on the hill, a striking mix of Gothic and Byzantine styles overlooking the town.
• Comillas Cemetery and El Ángel Exterminador — Wander this evocative hillside cemetery set among the ruins of an old church, home to Josep Llimona's haunting sculpture.
• Stroll the Old Town and Plaza — Explore the cobbled streets, indiano mansions, and the lively main square lined with cafes.
• Playa de Comillas — Relax on this sheltered town beach with calm waters, framed by the harbor and hills.
• Playa de Oyambre — Take a short drive to this wild, dune-backed beach within a protected natural park, popular with surfers.
• Harbor walk — Follow the seafront path along Comillas' small harbor for views back toward the university and palace on the hill.

Food to try

• Rabas — Try Cantabria's beloved fried calamari rings, crispy and simply seasoned, best enjoyed at a harborside bar with a cold beer.
• Cocido montañés — Warm up with this hearty mountain stew of white beans, cabbage, and assorted pork, a Cantabrian classic.
• Sobaos pasiegos — Sample these buttery, spongy little cakes from the Pas valleys, a favorite sweet souvenir.
• Quesada pasiega — Don't miss this dense, lightly sweet cheesecake-like dessert typical of the region.
• Anchoas de Cantabria — Seek out the region's prized salted anchovies, often served simply on bread or with tomato.
• Marmita or sorropotún — Look for this tuna and potato fisherman's stew, reflecting Comillas' seafaring heritage.

Local customs & good to know

• Respect siesta hours — Many small shops close in the early afternoon, reopening later, so plan errands around typical Spanish meal and rest times.
• Catch the Coso Blanco festival — If visiting in mid-July, look out for this iconic nighttime parade of illuminated floats, a Comillas tradition since the 19th century.
• Dine late — Restaurants typically serve dinner from 8:30 or 9pm onward, so adjust your schedule for a more authentic experience.
• Wear comfortable shoes for hills — The old town and university sit on steep slopes, so sturdy footwear makes exploring easier.