Ezcaray

A charming mountain town in the Sierra de la Demanda, popular for its ski resort, hiking trails, and well-preserved traditional architecture. It serves as a gateway to the natural beauty of Rioja's mountainous south.

Things to do

• Ski or hike at Valdezcaray — This nearby resort offers downhill skiing in winter and scenic mountain trails once the snow melts.
• Visit the Church of Santa María la Mayor — A striking Gothic church in the town center housing a notable Renaissance altarpiece.
• Tour the Real Fábrica de Paños — This restored 18th-century royal cloth factory tells the story of Ezcaray's once-thriving textile industry.
• Walk to La Fuentona waterfall — A pleasant riverside hike near Posada de la Fuentona leads to a small waterfall and natural pool in the forest.
• Stroll through Pinar de Zaldiarán — A peaceful pine forest on the edge of town with marked paths ideal for an easy walk.
• Wander the old quarter — Cobbled streets lined with stone mansions and wooden balconies reveal the town's noble past.
• Day trip to San Millán de la Cogolla — These UNESCO-listed monasteries, birthplace of written Spanish, are a short drive from Ezcaray.

Food to try

• Patatas a la riojana — A hearty stew of potatoes and chorizo simmered with paprika, a staple of Rioja mountain cooking.
• Caparrones de Ezcaray — Small red beans grown locally, slow-cooked into a rich, comforting stew often with pork.
• Setas de temporada — Wild mushrooms foraged in the surrounding Sierra de la Demanda, served grilled or sautéed in autumn.
• Cordero asado — Slow-roasted lamb, a traditional dish reflecting the region's shepherding heritage.
• Dining at El Portal — Chef Francis Paniego's Michelin-starred restaurant reinterprets Riojan classics with refined technique.
• Torrija riojana — A local take on the classic Spanish sweet, bread soaked in milk or wine and fried, dusted with sugar.

Local customs & good to know

• Expect a midday lull — Many shops and some restaurants close for a few hours in the early afternoon, so plan errands accordingly.
• Book ahead in ski season — Winter weekends bring visitors heading to Valdezcaray, so accommodations fill up quickly.
• Pair meals with local Rioja wine — Even in this mountain town, wine from the surrounding vineyards is a natural accompaniment to any meal.
• Respect the town's quiet pace — Ezcaray is small and residential outside peak season, so keep noise down in the evenings out of courtesy to locals.