Hay-on-Wye

Y Gelli Gandryll

A charming border town famous for its secondhand bookshops and annual literary festival, set on the River Wye with castle ruins and picturesque streets. It's a haven for book lovers and offers a distinctive cultural atmosphere with excellent cafes and independent shops.

Things to do

• Browse Richard Booth's Bookshop — The world's largest secondhand bookshop, housed in a converted cinema on Lion Street, with over 200,000 titles spanning multiple floors and rooms.
• Explore Hay Castle Ruins — Wander through the atmospheric remains of this 12th-century Norman castle overlooking the town, with newly restored grounds offering views across the Wye Valley.
• Walk along the River Wye — Follow the scenic riverside path that forms the England-Wales border, offering peaceful woodland walks and opportunities to spot wildlife.
• Visit Independent Bookshops — Explore specialty shops like Murder & Mayhem (crime fiction), Hay Castle Bookshop, and numerous other independent dealers scattered throughout the town's charming streets.
• Attend Hay Festival — Experience the world-renowned literary festival held in May, featuring author talks, debates, and cultural events that draw thousands of visitors.
• Visit the Clock Tower and Town Centre — Explore the heart of Hay with its Victorian clock tower, independent galleries, craft shops, and the picturesque High Street lined with local businesses.

Food to try

• Welsh Lamb — Local restaurants feature exceptional Welsh lamb dishes, often sourced from nearby farms and prepared in traditional or contemporary styles.
• Hay-on-Wye Cheeses — Sample locally-produced Welsh artisan cheeses available at delis and markets, including varieties from nearby cheesemakers in the Welsh Marches.
• Afternoon Tea at Local Cafés — Enjoy traditional Welsh afternoon tea with homemade cakes and local produce at independent tea rooms and cafés throughout the town.
• Fresh Trout from the Wye — Many restaurants serve freshly caught River Wye trout, a local specialty prepared simply to showcase its delicate flavour.
• Welsh Cakes — Seek out traditional Welsh cakes (picau ar y maen) sold at local bakeries and markets, featuring dried fruit and warm spices.

Local customs & good to know

• Book Town Ethos — Hay is deeply rooted in literary culture; expect independent bookshops on nearly every corner and conversations about reading as a local passion.
• Border Town Bilingualism — The town sits on the England-Wales border and uses both English and Welsh; you'll see bilingual signage and Welsh culture is visibly celebrated.
• Pedestrian-Friendly Exploration — The compact town centre is best explored on foot, with narrow medieval streets that cars cannot easily navigate, encouraging leisurely wandering.
• Independent Shop Culture — Shopping here means supporting small independent businesses rather than chains; locals and visitors alike embrace the alternative, bohemian atmosphere this creates.