Southern Highlands (Oaxaca & Chiapas)
Sur de México
Plan your trip to Southern Highlands (Oaxaca & Chiapas)
The Southern Highlands of Oaxaca and Chiapas offer a rare blend of indigenous culture, colonial architecture, and dramatic natural landscapes shaped by centuries of Zapotec and Maya heritage. From the weaving villages and archaeological sites of Oaxaca to the rainforests and canyons of Chiapas, this region rewards slow travel and deep cultural immersion. You'll encounter living traditions, world-class coffee and mezcal, and some of Mexico's most striking mountain scenery.
Getting there & around
Fly into Oaxaca City's Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX) or Tuxtla Gutiérrez's Ángel Albino Corzo Airport (TGZ); both have connections to Mexico City and major US hubs. Rent a car for flexibility exploring mountain villages, though buses connect major towns reliably. The region spans roughly 250km north to south; allow 2-4 hours driving between main destinations.
How long to stay
Plan 8-10 days to experience both Oaxaca and Chiapas properly, including time in colonial towns, indigenous communities, and natural sites. Fewer than 5 days means missing the region's depth; this isn't a place to rush.
When to go
November to March brings cool, dry weather ideal for hiking, visiting archaeological sites, and exploring mountain villages without oppressive heat or heavy rains. April-May gets hot; June-October is rainy season, though mornings are often clear and crowds thin.
Suggested itinerary
- Oaxaca City: Colonial Center & Markets — Arrive in Oaxaca City and explore the zócalo, Cathedral, and surrounding colonial plazas on foot. Visit Central de Abastos market for textiles, produce, and local crafts; spend the evening sampling mezcal and regional cuisine in the historic center.
- Weaving Villages: Teotitlán & Tlacolula — Day trip to Teotitlán del Valle to see traditional backstrap looms and purchase directly from weavers. Return via Tlacolula de Matamoros and the underground caverns of Hierve el Agua, where mineral-rich springs create natural pools.
- Archaeological Oaxaca: Mitla & Beyond — Explore the geometric stone mosaics of Mitla's pre-Columbian ruins, then visit Ocotlán de Morelos if time allows. Return to Oaxaca City or push on toward Chiapas.
- San Cristóbal de las Casas: Mountain Town & Indigenous Culture — Drive to San Cristóbal (5-6 hours) and settle into this highland colonial town famous for indigenous textiles and traditional dress. Walk the zócalo and visit the Cathedral and San Nicolás Church.
- Indigenous Communities: Chamula & Zinacantán — Take a guided tour to neighboring Tzotzil Maya villages where you'll witness traditional weaving, natural dye production, and unique religious practices blending Catholicism with pre-Columbian beliefs.
- Cañón del Sumidero & Tuxtla Gutiérrez — Drive to Tuxtla Gutiérrez and take a boat through the dramatic Cañón del Sumidero, seeing 1,000m cliffs and wildlife. Visit the Museo Regional de Antropología if time permits.
- Palenque: Maya Rainforest Ruins — Travel to Palenque and spend the morning exploring this stunning archaeological site nestled in Chiapas jungle; visit the Temple of the Inscriptions and Palace. Stay overnight near the park for a cooler, quieter experience.
- Misol-Há & Agua Azul Waterfalls — Visit the 30m cascade at Misol-Há and the turquoise pools of Agua Azul (best in dry season). Swim and hike through lush forest before returning to Palenque or heading back toward Oaxaca.
Frequently asked questions
Is San Cristóbal de las Casas worth visiting?
Yes—it's one of Mexico's most atmospheric colonial towns and the cultural heart of Chiapas's indigenous highlands. The combination of preserved architecture, vibrant indigenous markets, and nearby traditional villages makes it essential for understanding the region's living cultures.
How many days do I need in Oaxaca City?
2-3 days minimum to explore the zócalo, museums, food scene, and nearby markets; longer if you want day trips to weaving villages or archaeological sites. Most travelers spend 3-4 days and use it as a base.
Is Palenque worth the drive from Oaxaca?
Yes, if you have the time—it's one of Mexico's most spectacular Maya ruins set in rainforest. The 10-12 hour drive (or flight via Mexico City) is long, but most travelers consider Palenque a must-see if visiting Chiapas.
Can you visit Oaxaca and Chiapas in one trip?
Yes, but you'll need at least 8-10 days to see both regions without excessive driving; a 5-day trip works if you focus on either Oaxaca or Chiapas alone. Most visitors choose one region to avoid burnout.
What's the best waterfall to visit: Agua Azul or Misol-Há?
Both are worth visiting if you have time—Agua Azul has dramatic turquoise cascades and swimming pools (best November-May), while Misol-Há is more intimate with a single 30m waterfall and cave behind it. Visit Agua Azul in dry season for the clearest water.
History
The Southern Highlands of Oaxaca and Chiapas represent one of Mexico's most culturally complex regions, with roots stretching back to pre-Columbian civilizations including the Zapotec and Maya peoples. Spanish colonial conquest in the 16th century layered European and Catholic traditions onto indigenous societies, creating a unique syncretic culture that persists today. The region's mountainous terrain allowed many indigenous communities to maintain their autonomy and distinct identities throughout centuries of Mexican history. In modern times, Chiapas became a focal point of indigenous rights movements, most notably the Zapatista uprising of 1994, which drew international attention to the struggles of highland communities.
Culture
The Southern Highlands are renowned for their vibrant indigenous cultures, colorful textiles, and deeply rooted spiritual practices that blend Catholic and pre-Hispanic traditions. Traditional markets, indigenous languages, and ceremonial festivals define daily life in towns like Oaxaca City, San Cristóbal, and countless mountain villages where Zapotec, Tzeltal, and Tzotzil communities preserve ancestral customs. The region's cuisine, folk arts, and Day of the Dead celebrations reflect a profound connection to ancestral memory and a distinctive worldview that sets it apart from other parts of Mexico.
Language
While Spanish is widely spoken, numerous indigenous languages dominate in highland communities, particularly Zapotec in Oaxaca and Tzeltal and Tzotzil in Chiapas. Useful phrases include "Buenos días" (good morning) and "Gracias" (thank you), though learning even basic indigenous words shows respect in traditional villages where Spanish may be a second language.
Best time to visit
November to March offers cooler, drier weather suitable for hiking and cultural exploration.
Places to visit
- Oaxaca City — The vibrant capital of Oaxaca state, famous for its colonial architecture, indigenous culture, and world-class cuisine…
- San Cristóbal de las Casas — A picturesque highland town in Chiapas with stunning colonial churches, vibrant indigenous markets, and a thriving bohe…
- Hierve el Agua — A striking natural wonder featuring mineral-rich hot spring waterfalls cascading down travertine formations in the Oaxa…
- Mitla — An important pre-Columbian archaeological site known for its intricate geometric stonework and impressive palatial stru…
- Tlacolula de Matamoros — A traditional Zapotec market town famous for its lively Sunday tianguis and mezcal production, serving as a gateway to…
- Teotitlán del Valle — A renowned weaving village where artisans continue centuries-old traditions of creating intricate hand-loomed textiles…
- Puerto Escondido — A legendary Pacific beach town known for world-class surfing, pristine beaches, and a laid-back bohemian vibe. The coas…
- Palenque — One of Mexico's most impressive Maya archaeological sites nestled in jungle, featuring elaborate stone carvings, pyrami…
- Misol-Há — A stunning 35-meter waterfall in Chiapas that plunges into a crystalline pool surrounded by lush jungle, with a hidden…
- Agua Azul — A breathtaking series of cascades and pools with brilliant turquoise water flowing through the jungle of Chiapas. The d…
- Huatulco — A planned coastal resort town offering nine stunning bays with pristine beaches, coral reefs, and excellent diving oppo…
- Ocotlán de Morelos — A small Zapotec village known for its stunning natural setting and indigenous traditions, offering a quieter alternativ…
- Tuxtla Gutiérrez — The capital of Chiapas state, serving as a major transportation hub and gateway to the region's natural wonders and arc…
- Cañón del Sumidero — A dramatic 1000-meter deep canyon with towering cliffs formed by the Grijalva River, best explored by boat tours that r…
Where to eat
- Casa Crespo (Oaxacan, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca). Order: Mole Negro Oaxaqueño.
- Canela y Clavo (Contemporary Mexican, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca). Order: Duck Mole with Chocolate and Chiles.
- Zandunga (Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Centro, Oaxaca). Order: Camarones Zandunga (Shrimp in Peanut Sauce).
- Origen (Oaxacan Farm-to-Table, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca). Order: Tejate (Pre-Hispanic Maize Beverage) Tasting Menu.
- La Choza de Humo (Oaxacan, Jalatlaco, Oaxaca). Order: Tlayuda con Asiento (Crispy Tortilla with Lard).
- Doña Ricarda (Oaxacan, Centro, Oaxaca). Order: Mole Amarillo with Chicken.
- Casa Sarmiento (Oaxacan Fusion, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca). Order: Chiles Rellenos with Ant Eggs and Mole.
- El Asador de Don Juan (Grilled Meats, Centro, Oaxaca). Order: Carne Asada Plate with Corn Tortillas.
- Casa Oaxaca (Contemporary Oaxacan, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca). Order: Mole Prieto with Grasshoppers.
- La Tana (Mexican/International, Centro, Oaxaca). Order: Quesillo (String Cheese) and Roasted Vegetable Tart.
- Tierra Blanca (Chiapanecan, El Cerrillo, San Cristóbal). Order: Cochito Pibil (Slow-Roasted Pork).
- Na Bolom (Chiapanecan, Centro, San Cristóbal). Order: Chile Relleno Chiapaneco.
- Pierre (French-Mexican Fusion, Centro, San Cristóbal). Order: Duck Confit with Black Bean Sauce.
- Café Museo Café (Chiapanecan/Café, Centro, San Cristóbal). Order: Chiapas Coffee with Chocolate Croissant.
- Comedor Principal (Chiapanecan, Centro, Tuxtla Gutiérrez). Order: Huevos Chiapaneco with Fresh Tortillas.